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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.